In the last several columns we discussed the first railroad
lines into this community. Prior to that time, which would have been before
1890, travel and obtaining supplies here was largely limited to primitive
woods roads and waterways.
If you lived in Boston or Albany, as an example, and wished to come to
Tupper you would need to travel first by train to Whitehall, then by steamboat
up Lake Champlain to Plattsburgh, where a train would take you to Ausable
Forks or Keeseville. From either one of these communities you would need
to board a stage coach hauled, as a rule, by six horses. Your route would
be over the shoulder of Whiteface Mountain to Bloomingdale by way of Franklin
Falls to Saranac Lake. A jolting, often crowded, uncomfortable, tiring
ride of some eight hours. The stage coach would take you directly to Martins
Landing located on Ampersand Bay at the N/E end of Lower Saranac Lake.
You could now obtain a boat, a guide, and provisions, for the lakes, streams
and rivers would now become your highway. Rowing up the length of the Lower
Lake usually in a Saranac, as the guide boats of that region were called,
you would then enter the Saranac River, then cross the Middle Lake or Round
Pond, as it is sometimes called, and arrive at Bartletts Carry. Here, where
Verge Bartlett had built a hotel (now Bartlett Carry Club), the Saranac
breaks through a ledge of anorthosite in a narrow gorge, and a short carry
is necessary. Your guide will now wish his boat as on of Will Allen Martin’s
“eggshells,” the name given to the extra-light guide boat innovated and
built by Martin, who together with Ed Krumholz (first owner of Wawbeek
Hotel), had a boat-building business on Saranac Lake. It may be worth noting
that originally the local guides greeted Willie Allen's boat with skepticism,
considering it too fragile. They underestimated the superb craftsmanship
that allowed the reduction in weight (70 pounds compared to the typical
80-120 pounds for other guide boats of the time). It soon became the most
sought-after boat in the area. Having completed the quarter-mile carry
(now one-half mile due to recent re-routing), your guide will row you from
the outlet of Upper Saranac Lake directly across that lake to where in
1830 Jesse Corey had a home, now the Wawbeek Hotel location, at a place
called Sweeneys Carry. It is now necessary to “carry” overland three miles
to the Raquette River, where you will find Tromblee's (Trombley) Landing.
Tupper lake is now only 9.89 miles down river to the first hotel, which
will be Uncle Mart Moody’s Mt. Morris house, where it is possible you might
run into President Grover Cleaveland or President Chester Arthur (who commissioned
Uncle Mart, our first postmaster). Both presidents were fond of Uncle Mart
and Aunt Minerva and the wonderful trout fishing then available in Tupper
Lake. The Mt. Morris House, later the Prince Albert Hotel, was located
on the present Peter Day property, where the turn to the Country Club leaves
Route 30 at Moody. A further word about the famous Sweeney Carry may be
of interest: First, it should be pointed out that in later years you could
rent a horse and a wagon designed to carry multiple boats that could expedite
that carry.
Before that time, some of the guides would let their passengers off at
the head of the carry and row alone two miles down the lake.
Here they would use the original and shorter Indian Carry at Coreys to
Stony Ponds and access the Raquette at the Stony Creek outlet. After 1870,
when the Setting Pole Dam flooded the river almost as far as Raquette Falls,
today’s twisting Stony Creek would be a straight shot from the last Stony
Pond to the river. The solo guide would now row 6.35 miles downstream and
rejoin his party at Tromblee’s. Extra rowing, to be sure, but probably
easier, especially to a guide accustomed to daily 40-mile rowing trips.
Permit me to digress a bit further concerning Sweeneys Carry. In 1878 a
famous fight for possession took place at that historic spot. Captain James
H. Pierce of Bloomingdale claimed the land and so did C.F. Norton, the
lumber king. In those days and in this case, possession was nine points
of the law. Norton hired O.A. Coville, a well-known guide, to settle on
the lake end of the carry and Tupper Lake’s Oliver Tromblee to settle on
the other. This decisive move ended the fight. Coville and wife saw there
was a good chance for business on the carry and decided to stay there.
They bought 40 acres from Norton and built a halfway house that became
very popular with summer visitors. It is, of course, even more so today
under the astute managership of Norm and Nancy Howard as the renowned hotel
called the Wawbeek. Tromblee also took a fancy to his end of the carry
and stayed on. Mr. and Mrs. Trombley raised their family there, and if
you walk down a portion of the “old carry” from the “Y” (Route3/Route 30)
you can still find foundation remains of their homestead between the two
lean-tos now located there. The maps still show that location as Tromblee’s.
With the lake’s icebound and many times too treacherous for travel, the
settlers here were often isolated for weeks at a time in the winter months.
How did these early settlers get their winter supplies? We will attempt
to answer that question in the next Transitions.
